ECOTRAVEL
HAVEN IN THE CLOUDS
Saving an endangered cloud forest in Ecuador takes a little bit of help from some friends.
WORDS SARAH CHANT
ECOTRAVEL
HAVEN IN THE CLOUDS
Saving an endangered cloud forest in Ecuador takes a little bit of help from some friends.
WORDS SARAH CHANT
Mashpi Lodge is tucked into the heart of Chocó cloud forest.
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Only the tallest of trees are able to puncture the blanket of perpetual mist which shrouds the cloud forest as our gondola glides through the canopy. Bright flashes of iridescent blue catch my eye — Morpho butterflies dancing their way through the trees serenaded by the rising symphony of exotic bird song that signals a new day is dawning in the paradise that is Mashpi Reserve.
The reserve is part of Ecuador’s Chocó-Andean region, recognised globally as a biodiversity hotspot. Yet, despite its importance, only about six per cent of the region’s rain and cloud forests are still intact. Because of this, back in 2001 the former Mayor of Quito, Roque Sevilla felt compelled to buy 700 hectares of the forest and protect it. Sevilla created the private Mashpi Reserve to shelter the area’s unique biodiversity from the threats posed by agricultural projects, infrastructure growth and exploitation.
A cloud forest is a tropical or subtropical forest that’s often shrouded in persistent low-level cloud.
Tucked unobtrusively into this endangered bio-region is the luxury resort Mashpi Lodge.
Tucked unobtrusively into this endangered bio-region is the luxury resort Mashpi Lodge.
Mist shrouds Mashpi Reserve.
The protected area has since more than quadrupled in size to 2,700 hectares, and features plunging waterfalls and flowing rivers, as well as a plethora of flora and fauna, with more than 400 species of birds alone. Six forest rangers are employed to keep the forest safe from illegal logging and hunting, and it’s also the base for a conservation research station. Here, researchers have so far discovered 12 unique species of frog and orchid that exist nowhere else on Earth.
The reserve provides a refuge for the near-threatened toucan barbet.
Researchers have discovered many new species of frog within the reserve.
The stunning lodge has been built using recycled materials.
Tucked unobtrusively into this endangered bio-region is the luxury resort Mashpi Lodge. Located on a scenic plateau and with breathtaking views over the surrounding forest, this peaceful luxury nature resort plays the dual role of helping fund the reserve’s conservation work whilst immersing guests in nature and comfort. There’s a viewing platform that juts out over the forest for wildlife watching, and an expedition room that serves as a library and somewhere guests can hear talks by the naturalist guides.
The gourmet meals are prepared using fresh local produce.
Dishes are inspired by native ingredients and infused with the exuberant flavours of the forest.
The lodge is sited deep in the forest on a patch of land that had once been cleared by loggers. A commitment that no additional trees would be removed during its building process made its construction painstakingly slow, but the results are stunning. Everything about this lodge is truly eco-friendly, from its building materials of recycled steel, glass and tropical woods to the locally grown food. Most of the workers are locals, with some being former loggers, miners or hunters.
I found sipping a crisp white wine in my room whilst relaxing in a bubbling jacuzzi was a great way to relax pleasantly sore muscles after a day’s adventuring.
I found sipping a crisp white wine in my room whilst relaxing in a bubbling jacuzzi was a great way to relax pleasantly sore muscles after a day’s adventuring.
Unwind after a day's exploration with a glass of wine, a jacuzzi and an incredible view.
It would be hard to find a more pleasurable and indulgent way to support conservation than to stay in one of Mashpi’s luxury rooms. The floor-to-ceiling windows provide not just a panoramic vista but a sense you are part of the cloud forest canopy, sharing air space with the howler monkeys who pass by, swinging from branch to branch.
It's impossible to see the tops of the ancient trees from ground level.
The forest is a birdwatcher's dream.
The ethos of the lodge encourages guests to respect nature and activities are on offer to complement this. An experienced local guide could accompany you on a walk through the forest, past tumbling waterfalls and mossy rocks, pointing out nattering toucans and gravity-defying hummingbirds as you go. Or you might find yourself pedalling above the treetops on a "Sky Bike", suspended high up on a creaky steel cable.
The open-air "Dragonfly" cable car glides above the forest canopy.
By day, you can trek the same trails that visiting scientists walk when they study the cloud forest’s wildlife. Or you could soar above the trees, riding the gondola that provides researchers with unparalleled access to the canopy. By night, you can navigate the valley by torch or moonlight, seeking out the frogs and other creatures hiding in the shadows, and marvelling at the glow-in-the-dark fungi. The lodge’s menu of wellness treatments takes full advantage of its unique setting, with options including an al-fresco massage next to a waterfall followed by a refreshing dip in its crystal-clear waters. As an alternative, I found sipping a crisp white wine in my room whilst relaxing in a bubbling jacuzzi was a great way to relax pleasantly sore muscles after a day’s adventuring.
The forest comes alive at night.
Spectacular waterfalls are among the natural wonders hidden within the reserve.
Hurtigruten Expeditions guests can play a role in helping the Mashpi Reserve protect and preserve the delicate Chocó ecosystem by visiting Mashpi Lodge as an add-on programme to certain Galápagos Islands expeditions. So if you’d like to help support an outstanding eco project that’s helping preserve the region’s fragile biodiversity, and at the same time enjoy a phenomenal luxury experience, take a look at the Hurtigruten Expeditions webpage and combine two of Ecuador’s most outstanding natural experiences in one unforgettable visit.