WILDLIFE
LOUNGE LIZARDS OF THE PACIFIC
The Galápagos Islands’ marine iguanas have changed the way we think about evolution.
WORDS GEORGINA LAVERS
WILDLIFE
LOUNGE LIZARDS OF THE PACIFIC
The Galápagos Islands’ marine iguanas have changed the way we think about evolution.
WORDS GEORGINA LAVERS
A marine iguana welcomes Hurtigruten passengers to Española island, part of the Galápagos archipelago.
Almost 1,000 kilometres off mainland Ecuador’s coast lie 19 islands that have changed the way we think about evolution. I visited them on a mission to find out more about some of their most unique and laid-back residents.
As my flight dips beneath the clouds to reveal the Galápagos Islands in all their glory, my thoughts turn to Charles Darwin and the excitement he must have felt when he grasped their scientific importance. From the yawning volcanic crater of Daphne Major that has just passed my window to the lush greenery of inland Santa Cruz and the moonscape of Bartolomé, the sheer diversity of these island gems is clear to see from this height. But I’m not here to focus on the differences between islands, I want to take a closer look at the one inhabitant that they all have in common — the endangered marine iguana.
Uncharitably described by Darwin as a "hideous looking creature of a dirty black colour", marine iguanas have had a bad rap over the centuries.
The "Godzilla" iguana.
Said to be the inspiration behind the mythical screen monster Godzilla, and uncharitably described by Darwin as a "hideous looking creature of a dirty black colour" and "most disgusting, clumsy lizards", marine iguanas have had a bad rap over the centuries. Yet what their detractors have failed to appreciate is their incredible significance from an evolutionary perspective. Originally thought to have evolved from South American land iguanas 10 million years ago, new genetic testing has revealed the marine iguana — which is found only in Galápagos — is actually around five million years old, which makes it the same age as the oldest islands. This suggests they evolved to adapt to an oceanic environment after drifting over to the newly formed islands on logs and rafts of vegetation. Since this branching, 11 distinct sub-species have evolved, ranging from the red and green "Christmas" iguana to the larger "Godzilla" iguana.
A "Christmas" iguana bakes in the sun on Española Island.
These new findings have galvanised conservation efforts, the most important of which is the Iguanas from Above Citizen Science project led by Dr Amy MacLeod. The project makes use of drone footage to carry out the first-ever full population estimate of marine iguanas throughout the Galápagos.
Whilst they may look ferocious, these gentle creatures are herbivores.
They blend seamlessly into their enviroment.
Marine iguanas are at home both on land and in water.
One of the marine iguana’s staunchest advocates, MacLeod emphasises that even in an archipelago famed for fostering the formation of new species, the algae-eating lizards are truly unique. Exemplifying this, the marine iguana’s snout has evolved to enable it to get as close to rocks as possible and scrape off algae. Back on land, they snort out the seawater salt cleansed from their blood, a feat not repeated anywhere else in the animal kingdom.
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A strong swimmer, aided by a spiny back that is thought to provide stability and a flattened tail that helps them cut through the water, marine iguanas also have powerful claws that enable them to grip onto rocks and withstand pounding surf. You might say they are ideally adapted to live both on land and in the sea, and this adaptation never ends.
You might say they are ideally adapted to live both on land and in the sea, and this adaptation never ends.
Marine iguanas peacefully coexist with other creatures.
"They don’t seem to ever get to the end of species formation, probably because they’re mixing up between the islands. You have just enough individuals moving between islands and breeding in the new populations," says MacLeod. She also admires the quirky and laid-back personality of these gentle herbivores.
South Plaza is the only island where land iguanas share territory with marine iguanas.
"There can be some pretty powerful and pounding water conditions in the Galápagos, but we’ve seen them almost surfing to return to shore. When they arrive back on land, you’ll often find them resting atop one another to regulate their body temperature. They’re so placid they’ll often be hanging around with lava lizards and sea lions — they just don’t seem to really mind," she says.
Long claws enable marine iguanas to cling on to slippery rocks.
This calm nature is evident to me as I visit a secluded bay on the western side of the island of Santa Cruz where we spy more than 100 individuals resting in a small clearing in the vegetation. A rustling in the thickets alerts us to a line of their peers sedately making their way back from the cold seas to the warmth of the group. Their bearing is stately, almost royal, and we watch in awe as they rejoin their companions for a post-swim lounge and siesta on the rocks. It's a ritual as ancient as the islands themselves and, with the help of MacLeod, one that hopefully will last for many millions more years to come.
Marine iguanas are unfazed by the presence of humans.